The Beaked Gecko as it is known due to its slender, narrow snout which ends in a resemblance to a beak is found in various arid areas of the continent. This species is relatively common in its native range and can reach a snout to vent length of between 1&5/8″ to 2&1/2″ (45mm to 59mm) depending on the sex. The body is somewhat slender, with a relatively long tail which ends in a rather small ball shape.

In its endemic regions, it is known to mainly feed on termites which could be a reason behind the narrow beak-like snout that they possess. This species is not common in captivity as many breeders are deterred from keeping or studying them due to limited supplies of termites. I have found that they can easily be raised on other insect prey. If juveniles are obtained at a relatively young age, their first food source can be something similar to termites.
Rhynchoedura Ornata

In the past, I have received young Rhynchoedura Ornata juveniles that were a mere 30mm total length, and as their first food source, I offered cricket nymphs (pinhead crickets) as a substitute. The first number of feeds of cricket nymphs were dusted with a calcium powder to disguise or resemble termites. There was no need to scent the cricket nymphs with termites. The cricket nymphs were devoured quite vigorously, and the geckos themselves were not stressed by the abundance on offer.

As the juveniles grew, I continued to use cricket nymphs as the main food source but reduced the dusting and increased the size of the crickets. Eventually, they would readily eat crickets that were about four times the size of a pinhead. I have not noticed a reduction in weight gain or any odd behavior by feeding crickets and believe that if they are not used to naturally eating termites when juveniles then they know no difference. I believe there would be difficulties in trying to convert adult specimens onto crickets.
Rhynchoedura Ornata

This species is uniquely patterned and in most cases one of the more attractive terrestrial species around due to its pink/red colouration with patched markings along the body. Although they are a very small species, they seem rather active during both day and night hours when in a captive environment. Relatively easy to cater for in a 1-foot sized enclosure, with a small amount of sand substrate and a plastic or terracotta hide. Reasonable ambient temperatures of between 24–26 degrees will suffice with ¼ of the enclosure being heated from underneath using a 25W heat cord will give a temperature of 86°F (30°C) thus creating a perfect gradient. They enjoy receiving a light water spray once every two days and will readily drink droplets from the side of the enclosure.

This species is relatively easy to cater for, and unlike some other gecko species of a similar size like the Diplodactylus species does not have the ability to climb enclosure sides. When threatened Rhynchoedura Ornata does not make use of the run and hide routine but more or less has adopted a “play dead” drama show where they will lay still above the substrate floor when a hand enters their enclosure.

The female tends to be the larger of the sexes and can quite easily be noticed when gravid due to the large size of the eggs, which bulge quite prominently from her slender body. Eggs are laid between 19–25 days after copulation, however, this is dependant on the quantity of food made available. The incubation period is roughly between 55–65 days at 80°F (27°C).

All in all, Rhynchoedura Ornata is a wonderful little species to work with, but they should not be easily dismissed as a prominent termite feeder.

I will attempt similar feeding principles mentioned above regarding the non-feeding of termites later in the season on Diplodactylus Conspicillatus to see if similar success can be obtained.

The genus Oedura is made up of many various species found from one corner of the Australian continent to the other. They are plentiful in both cold and warm regions and have some of the most spectacular colors and patterns that I have ever seen in a gecko species. They come in relatively small sizes from your Oedura Coggeri which is classified as being the smallest of the Oedura genus to possibly Oedura Marmorata (WA form) which is closest to being the largest of the genus have the potential of reaching a total length of 7&1/2″ (190+ mm).

Oedura is generally a very hardy genus of geckos which grow vigorously and would be the perfect gecko for an individual wishing to start out in gecko keeping. Their needs are minimal, more or less a 2–2 ½ foot tank is suitable for an adult pair with the exception of terrestrial species of needing a mesh lid.

It seems that many people get scared off by many Oedura species, and that seems simply because they are arboreal. Realistically the only extra requirement is that of a mesh lid. They can also be easily housed in large plastic tubs with the lid requirement being easily rectified to suit by easily removing the center part of the lid and replacing that by soldering fly mesh to the outside.

Furnishing the interior with properly sterilized branches and either sand or coir peat substrate and the addition of a small water bowl and a moist hide to finalize the enclosure. Most Oedura species will readily eat prey in the form of roaches or crickets and can become quite obese if fed too much.

A typical ambient (room) temperature of between 72-78°F (22–26°C) will suffice with an extra added source of heating being provided on ¼ of the enclosure in the form of a heating cord to get a temperature up to 86°F (30°C) creates a perfect gradient. During winter months a gradual reduction in temperature is required with feeding kept to a minimum. I have found that UVA/UVB lighting is not required but can be beneficial with any reptile.

Oedura species can be very productive during a breeding season, generally from September to March, and it is not unusual for a young adult pair aged around two years to easily produce 3–5 clutches. It is not unusual for females to lay every four weeks during the season, so it is imperative to supply a small nesting site in the form of a garden pot or plastic container filled with moist coir peat or a sand mix included.
Oedura Monilis

Incubation of eggs will give you a period before hatching of between 60–70 days pending on the incubation temperature, generally between 80-82°F (27–28°C). Juveniles grow vigorously, and sex can easily be determined at between 8–12 months of age pending on your feeding regime.

All in all many of the species like Oedura Castelnaui, Oedura Marmorata, Oedura Coggeri, Oedura Monilis and various other species can easily be maintain and have more vivid color and patterning to their common terrestrial cousins. As is common with most gecko species over handling is not advised.

So next time you are thinking of gecko species do not disregard our arboreal favorites just because they require a lid as this can easily and inexpensively be catered for.

I find similar requirements as above for the Strophurus genus but with the added requirement of UVA/UVB generated from either spotlight or a fluorescent tube.

Nephrurus Laevissimus (Smooth Knob Tailed Gecko) is a solitary species of terrestrial gekkonid which is primarily endemic in the arid regions of the Australian continent from Southern Northern Territory to Northern South Australia and incorporating the Western Australian region. The average captive bred female specimen has a snout to vent length of 2.6″ (61 mm), while the male is 2″ (52mm) in length.

This species in the Nephrurus genus is not widely kept in captivity but is becoming more popular with experienced breeders only due to a sustainable percentage of specimens having been successfully bred to cater for demand. I believe there are more enthusiasts who endeavor to keep this species but due to its finicky and somewhat skittish behavior had deterred many individuals from adding this unique species to their collections.

After a considerable amount of time in researching this species behavioral pattern, it has come to my opinion that they can be catered for inexpensively and easily as long as some major factors are considering in their husbandry.

Originally when I first acquired Nephrurus Laevissimus as part of my research I was advised of its nature and felt that this was, in fact, the challenge I was looking for, even though many a breeder had advised me that the most challenging part of their husbandry would be accustoming a typical middle to southern state species to the humid and hot temperatures of Tropical North Queensland.

Typical requirements for sub-adult or adult Nephrurus Laevissimus was to accommodate each specimen separately in its enclosure except when introducing the male to the female for breeding purposes and endeavoring to have an enclosure that mimicked the species native origin or the conditions it was accustomed to. This setup incorporated the use of heat cords and glass tanks that had the capacity to hold up to 25cm of a deep substrate on the heated moist end which slowly flowed down to a dry substrate side with a depth of 12–15cm. These requirements were to reduce stress or anxiety by allowing them to burrow to realistic depths as is typical in nature, particular when gravid females were about to lay.

I successfully incorporated these methods into their husbandry and further added the extra security by placing black contact around the outside of all the enclosures so that visual concerns from outside the enclosures were eliminated. The ambient temperatures are set at 77-79°F (25–26°C) during the summer months with a hot end reaching a maximum temperature of 80°F (30°C) 24/7 during both summer and winter months. The only variance during the winter months was dropping the ambient temperature so to mimic natural temperature patterns, also reducing daylight hours during the winter period.

Accustomed to the fore-mentioned methods and taking visual notes on the individual’s behavior during both day and night hours made one start to think, are they accustomed to these conditions due to a natural built-in mechanism or due to their previous catered conditions?

The progeny would be the key to gathering information and determining whether I was correct in my assumptions. During the breeding season from October 2006 through to March 2007 I had produced a total of 22 fertile eggs from 3 adult specimens. On average each egg measured a length of 3/4-1″ (17–18mm) and a width of 1/2″ (9–10mm). All eggs predominately were always laid by the females at the base of the deep moist heated substrate end which was a chore having to dig down 9&3/4″ (25cm) of the substrate to collect them. Collection always took place within the first 24 hours of being laid. From one single mating, the females cycled and laid every 14–16 days and produced an average of 4 clutches within that season.

I wondered whether slowing the incubation process down could or would produce more vigorous hatchlings with the determination to feed. I incubated with the use of vermiculite at a ratio of 250ml to 25mls of water and placed individual clutches into air tight containers and incubated at a lower temperature predominately 73-75°F (23–24° Celsius). At these temperatures, the incubation period was extended, and typically juveniles were hatching out between 75–85 days.
Nephrurus Laevissimus

All individual juveniles were housed in small glass or plastic containers measuring 14cm x 9cm with white sand as a substrate measuring a depth of only 1cm with a small plastic hide (plastic hides are ideal as crickets find it hard to climb and hide on the top of the inside, thus easy access to finding food for juveniles).

These small enclosures were completely covered on the outsides by black contact and then 1/3 of the containers placed on 25W heats cords. The substrate above the heat cord was constantly kept moist, and 2–3 small crickets were introduced with the first part of the hopper legs being trimmed to slow them down for easy access.

Crickets were offered within 24–48 hrs from hatching and I found juveniles would eat before going through their first shed. Small crickets were consistently offered and were devoured religiously, even though on introducing crickets made many specimens seek refuge, it eventually made them curious and kept them continually enticed and entertained. They seem to be a species that needs to be stimulated by moving prey so to keep them actively hunting.

Juveniles grew quite fast from the constant stimuli of food that they were never allowed to burrow, and they were never over handling. Within 7–8 months of age all Nephrurus Laevissimus were full grown and even as adults they were still never allowed to burrow, except when gravid females were to lay, at which the substrate depth was increased to only 10–12cm, with some females preferring to lay in the shallow end which had a depth of only 5–6 cm. After laying all females were transferred back to the same enclosure styles except only on a 1cm depth of the substrate.

All 22 specimens that hatched out and grew vigorously to over 12 months of age are all still going strong with not a single death to date. Many of these juveniles have gone to new homes with the similar requirements they were accustomed to after hatching.

I stand by the fact that I believe if they are not accustomed to anything different then how do they know what they should or should not be stressed about.

However, they are a very finicky species when compared to other members of Nephrurus and would advise only those individuals who have had experience with geckos in the past to consider them as a new addition to their collection. They are not a first gecko species.

All views outlined above regarding Nephrurus Laevissimus are based on my experiences with this species and should not be understood as a contradiction to other breeders techniques.

The Cyrtodactylus Louisiadensis is a native species endemic to Far North Queensland, is the only species in Australia under the Cyrtodactylus genus, with most species of the genus being found throughout the greater Asian region and Papua New Guinea.

The Cyrtodactylus Louisiadensis has special requirements, and in most cases, there is no relevant information recorded on courtship and mating, but I have successful research and visually documented photographs of their behavior that many may find quite amazing.

This species is sometimes confused with the aggressive “wife basher”, so to speak, Pseudothecadactylus Lindneri. However, this is far from the truth, in retrospect their behavior is quite the opposite. Cyrtodactylus Louisiadensis is a relatively social species and a very affectionate species to its partner. In most cases, the male is very vocal during the breeding season and is also seen to lick the females face quite frequently to which she responds. Mating has been observed out in the open on a branch or log to which they can be bonded for an hour long period. The gestation period is 3–4 weeks depending on many variables (i.e. feeding frequency; temperatures and humidity; calcium and UVA/UVB requirements).

As the Cyrtodactylus Louisiadensis is a hard-shelled egg layer, it is imperative that calcium is constantly offered during the breeding season whether on dusted insects or moist rolled up calcium balls so not to cause any undue harm to the female and to prevent calcium deficiency and nonviable eggs.

It is also imperative that regular UVA/UVB in the form of fluorescent or spotlight are offered during the day as a basking spot.

The female will dig a small hole to lay her clutch of eggs, generally within a hidden dark area of the enclosure.

This species incubation period is rather long. It is believed that more research is required into “Temperature Sex-Based Determination” as I have found from hatching out a total of 15 juveniles that the average incubation period is between 140–150 days at a steady 86°F (27° Celsius) with a low humidity requirement in the hatching container compared to soft shelled eggs.

Cyrtodactylus Louisiadensis is the second largest gecko that is naturally found in Australia by length, while Nephrurus Amyae is the largest by weight.

Many individuals have contacted me searching for an easy incubation method that successfully incubates and hatches juveniles. Outlined below is the method I use which achieves, on average, a 95% hatch rate.

There is no need to spend a fortune on an incubator and in most cases, a simple still air Hovabator, which is available for under $50, is a straightforward and easy incubator to use. I have used the Hovabator for some years now with no issues or complaints. The Zoo Med ReptiBator is a much-needed upgrade to the Hovabator that uses the same concept with a controller and probe combination to control heat. The ReptiBator can be found for under $120

It is best to keep your incubator in a cold room to achieve an adequate temperate that has little fluctuation. In summer months an air conditioned room set at an ambient of about 70°F (21°Celsius) will be sufficient to enable a set incubation temperature of between 80° to 84°F (27° to 29°Celsius) inside the incubating unit. It is important to remember that an increase in the ambient room temperature will affect your incubation temperature if it is a severe temperature increase.

Next step is to purchase various cheap airtight plastic containers (deli-cups) from your local supermarket or reptile supply company. They must be air tight. Sterilize the containers with F10, Chlorhexidine or by placing in the freezer. Very accurately mix 1 cup (250 ml) of vermiculite with .84 fluid ounces (25 ml) of water (applicable to soft shelled egg layers) and mix thoroughly to cover the vermiculite with moisture. Finally, fill your airtight plastic containers, so they are about half full with the above mix. Seal the containers with their lids and place into your incubator.

It is imperative to note that if your incubators internal temperature is 82°F (28°Celsius) that the temperature inside your air tight containers will in most cases be -0.5 to -1.0° cooler. I find by incubating at this temperature, that the airtight container temperature is closer to 81.5°F (27.5° Celsius).

Where possible avoid producing at temperatures higher than 30° Celsius as the chances of speeding up the incubation period can cause some weak juveniles or premature deaths by the developing embryos within the egg.

It is imperative that you get accustomed to gravid females and make sure the laying material or nest boxes within the enclosures has a slightly moist substrate or medium. I try to collect all eggs within the first 24 hours of being laid and mark the eggs with a small line indicating the orientation they were laid and place them on top of the incubating medium within the airtight containers. The marking of the eggs is crucial as moving or bumping the eggs during incubation can damage or kill the developing embryo within the egg.

After placing the eggs in the incubator, there should be no further need to open the containers until hatching has occurred. Depending on the species and incubating temperatures the fertile eggs should hatch within a 50–90 day period. Hatching is present by the sweating of the eggs which is the formation of droplets of moisture on the exterior of the egg.

Infertile eggs or eggs where the juveniles have died tend to cave in or become invaded by mold. However, some eggs will still be covered by mold but still hatch successfully. Eggs which have caved in or shriveled up tend to be of no further use, particularly in the first month of incubation. Discard the dead eggs.

I keep new hatchlings within the incubator for about 24 hrs after hatching and then transfer them to a nursery enclosure. Make sure you check the unhatched eggs in the air tight containers to see that no they were not disturbed due to the newly hatched juvenile’s movements. All line marked eggs are facing upwards, so the line is visible.